Wednesday, 11 November 2020

Wine in the Time of Coronovirus, Part 14 (What We Drank to Toast Democracy)

Well… in what is amounting to, put charitably, quite a year now contains one of the most well-THAT-was-quite-a-week moments arguably in U.S (world?) history. In case you haven’t heard (presumably because you’ve been fortunate enough to have been stranded on a beautiful, remote island somewhere with an almost unlimited amount of Madeira stashed in caves with which you could soak your brain into a constant stupor until you were rescued), the USA had a little, somewhat acrimonious election thing going on in which we chose our next president.

There’s something in all of the recent electoral madness, however, to which both sides of the political divide can and should toast: the peaceful transition of power. Most of us take this for granted, yet it’s the linchpin that holds a good deal of the world’s democratically-based governments from spiraling into pseudo-banana republic territory.

Like having a roof over your head, or clean water, or running electricity, peaceful government transitions are the type of thing about which you don’t realize how truly f*cked you are without them until they are gone. And so, I raised a few glasses (ok, more than a few) in celebration of this oft-overlooked but essential component of the modern democratic process…

elegantNV Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve (Champagne, $55)

Celebrations, of course, demand bubbles; in this case, one of Reims’ classic expressions. The depth of all of the various yellow, red, and everything-in-between apple fruits in this sparkler are, I suspect, in part due to a fair percentage (40%) of reserve wines included in the blend. In any case, while this blend of up to 60 crus doesn’t lack for toasty, brioche-like headiness, Chuck’s Brut Reserve always surprises me (in the best ways) with how fresh and floral it comes off despite the 10-years aging average of the reserve wines used. Whatever; the end result is consistently, elegantly, and luxuriously delicious.

 

2018 Tongue Dancer ‘Pinot de Ville’ Putnam Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $66)

This winsome, single vineyard red is produced by James and Kerry MacPhail, who clearly know what they are doing and clearly have a vision of providing Sonoma Coast Pinot that’s lush, full, and ripe without sacrificing the region’s more delicate, signature tea-leaf and spice accoutrements. Simply put, few California producers walk the line between seductive and svelte Pinot quite as well as the MacPhails. The downside? Only five barrels were made. Look, just get on their allocation list already and thank me later, ok?

 

2012 Bodega Tapiz ‘Las Notas de Jean Claude’ (Mendoza, $100)

This Merlot-based icon red from Tapiz hails from the San Pablo Estate vineyard a whopping 4430 feet (!) above sea level, affording the grapes (as you might expect) some very cold nights after soaking in all of the ample Argentine sunshine all day long. The result: thick, chewy, sexy fruitiness (think currants, black raspberries, and pretty much every type of plum that your hungover brain can imagine), matched with excellent balance between sinewy structure and freshness. So fresh, in fact, that you’d be hard-pressed to imagine this juice is already over eight years old. Dried herbs, spices, and a healthy does of chocolate round everything out; the lengthy finish is almost just a bonus.

Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Wine in the Time of Coronovirus, Part 14 (What We Drank to Toast Democracy) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/wine-in-the-time-of-coronovirus-part-14-what-we-drank-to-toast-democracy/

Monday, 9 November 2020

Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For November 9, 2020

I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format.
 
They are meant to be quirky, fun, and (mostly) easily-digestible reviews of (mostly) currently available wines (click here for the skinny on how to read them), and are presented links to help you find them, so that you can try them out for yourself. Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For November 9, 2020 from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-november-9-2020/

Thursday, 5 November 2020

Wine in the Time of Coronovirus, Part 13 (The Evolution of Modern Carménère with Terra Noble)

Terra Noble vines
image: Terra Noble

The evolutionary winemaking journey of what we might call modern Carménère red wines in Chile looks something like this:

Treating it like Merlot because they actually thought it was Merlot ->
Living with the fact that its tannins were just going to be green and harsh, tough nuggies ->
Over-ripening the bejeezus out of the grapes out of abject fear of its pyrazine-driven green notes, leading to bloated, pruney wines ->
Hiding its green notes by over-oaking the hell out of it ->
Making terroir-driven, more balanced wines made by giving the grapes extra TLC in the vineyard.

Terra Noble map
image: Terra Noble

Terra Noble, in the Maule Valley’s San Clemente area, has been at the Carménère game since `93, so they were at the very beginning (or, at least, the end of the beginning) of that twisting evolutionary tale. With Marcelo Garcia at the winemaking helm, they’re now pretty much fully invested in the latter phase, trying to showcase Carménère for what it naturally brings in Maule, haters-be-damned.

Their efforts make excellent statements about the current state of modern Carménère coming out of Chile: expressive reds that aren’t overblown, will almost certainly please a crowd, and are still affordable enough that they will please your bank account…

 

crowd pleaser2018 Terra Noble Gran Reserva Carménère (Colchagua Valley, $19)

Terra Noble’s flagship Carm is a spicy, smokey, fruity affair from grapes planted back in `94. From pepper and herb notes to black fruits and juicy vibrancy, this is the kind of Carm that even Carm haters can get behind. Plenty of structure sits behind the palate’s tart plum flavors, along with meatiness, power, and a dash of cloves. The long, dynamic finish is a nice bonus at this price point.

 

2017 Terra Noble CA 1 Andes Carménère (Colchagua Valley, $25)

From a hot year even at 1200 feet of elevation in Los Lingues near the Andean foothills comes this deep, dark, spicy, seductive number of a Carménère. Black plums, bell pepper, sweet tobacco, licorice, herbs, all leading to a great mouthfeel that’s smooth, vibrant, muscular, and chewy. Equal parts power and poise… ok, maybe 60/40, actually…

 

2017 Terra Noble CA 2 ‘Costa’ Carménère (Colchagua Valley, $25)

As the name implies, the vineyard source for this Carm is close (40km) to the ocean, planted on granitic soils from a coastal mountain range that sees a good amount of morning breezes as a result. It’s a serious red, with pronounced – but well-integrated – tannins, black fruits, plentiful herbal notes, and a ton of smoked meat action. The deal-sealer is the freshness, though, which weaves its way throughout every aspect of the palate. A statement-maker, basically.

 

crowd pleaser2018 Terra Noble Gran Reserva Carignan (Maule Valley, $19)

A bonus wine, not from Carménère  but from Chile’s ound-for-pound best-performing red grape: Carignan. It’s a minor crime that more of this variety isn’t planted throughout the country (particularly on granite and quartz soils, as is the case with the vines that source this red). Seeing 50% concrete and 5% whole cluster gives this Carignan rendition a fresh, tart profile of red fruit flavors and tobacco spiciness, with a chewy, tasty mouthfeel and a fairly long finish. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better introduction to Chilean Carignan for the money.

Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Wine in the Time of Coronovirus, Part 13 (The Evolution of Modern Carménère with Terra Noble) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/wine-in-the-time-of-coronovirus-part-13-the-evolution-of-modern-carmenere-with-terra-noble/

Monday, 2 November 2020

Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For November 2, 2020

I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format.
 
They are meant to be quirky, fun, and (mostly) easily-digestible reviews of (mostly) currently available wines (click here for the skinny on how to read them), and are presented links to help you find them, so that you can try them out for yourself. Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For November 2, 2020 from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-november-2-2020/