Wednesday 11 November 2020

Wine in the Time of Coronovirus, Part 14 (What We Drank to Toast Democracy)

Well… in what is amounting to, put charitably, quite a year now contains one of the most well-THAT-was-quite-a-week moments arguably in U.S (world?) history. In case you haven’t heard (presumably because you’ve been fortunate enough to have been stranded on a beautiful, remote island somewhere with an almost unlimited amount of Madeira stashed in caves with which you could soak your brain into a constant stupor until you were rescued), the USA had a little, somewhat acrimonious election thing going on in which we chose our next president.

There’s something in all of the recent electoral madness, however, to which both sides of the political divide can and should toast: the peaceful transition of power. Most of us take this for granted, yet it’s the linchpin that holds a good deal of the world’s democratically-based governments from spiraling into pseudo-banana republic territory.

Like having a roof over your head, or clean water, or running electricity, peaceful government transitions are the type of thing about which you don’t realize how truly f*cked you are without them until they are gone. And so, I raised a few glasses (ok, more than a few) in celebration of this oft-overlooked but essential component of the modern democratic process…

elegantNV Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve (Champagne, $55)

Celebrations, of course, demand bubbles; in this case, one of Reims’ classic expressions. The depth of all of the various yellow, red, and everything-in-between apple fruits in this sparkler are, I suspect, in part due to a fair percentage (40%) of reserve wines included in the blend. In any case, while this blend of up to 60 crus doesn’t lack for toasty, brioche-like headiness, Chuck’s Brut Reserve always surprises me (in the best ways) with how fresh and floral it comes off despite the 10-years aging average of the reserve wines used. Whatever; the end result is consistently, elegantly, and luxuriously delicious.

 

2018 Tongue Dancer ‘Pinot de Ville’ Putnam Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast, $66)

This winsome, single vineyard red is produced by James and Kerry MacPhail, who clearly know what they are doing and clearly have a vision of providing Sonoma Coast Pinot that’s lush, full, and ripe without sacrificing the region’s more delicate, signature tea-leaf and spice accoutrements. Simply put, few California producers walk the line between seductive and svelte Pinot quite as well as the MacPhails. The downside? Only five barrels were made. Look, just get on their allocation list already and thank me later, ok?

 

2012 Bodega Tapiz ‘Las Notas de Jean Claude’ (Mendoza, $100)

This Merlot-based icon red from Tapiz hails from the San Pablo Estate vineyard a whopping 4430 feet (!) above sea level, affording the grapes (as you might expect) some very cold nights after soaking in all of the ample Argentine sunshine all day long. The result: thick, chewy, sexy fruitiness (think currants, black raspberries, and pretty much every type of plum that your hungover brain can imagine), matched with excellent balance between sinewy structure and freshness. So fresh, in fact, that you’d be hard-pressed to imagine this juice is already over eight years old. Dried herbs, spices, and a healthy does of chocolate round everything out; the lengthy finish is almost just a bonus.

Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Wine in the Time of Coronovirus, Part 14 (What We Drank to Toast Democracy) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/wine-in-the-time-of-coronovirus-part-14-what-we-drank-to-toast-democracy/

Monday 9 November 2020

Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For November 9, 2020

I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format.
 
They are meant to be quirky, fun, and (mostly) easily-digestible reviews of (mostly) currently available wines (click here for the skinny on how to read them), and are presented links to help you find them, so that you can try them out for yourself. Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For November 9, 2020 from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-november-9-2020/

Thursday 5 November 2020

Wine in the Time of Coronovirus, Part 13 (The Evolution of Modern Carménère with Terra Noble)

Terra Noble vines
image: Terra Noble

The evolutionary winemaking journey of what we might call modern Carménère red wines in Chile looks something like this:

Treating it like Merlot because they actually thought it was Merlot ->
Living with the fact that its tannins were just going to be green and harsh, tough nuggies ->
Over-ripening the bejeezus out of the grapes out of abject fear of its pyrazine-driven green notes, leading to bloated, pruney wines ->
Hiding its green notes by over-oaking the hell out of it ->
Making terroir-driven, more balanced wines made by giving the grapes extra TLC in the vineyard.

Terra Noble map
image: Terra Noble

Terra Noble, in the Maule Valley’s San Clemente area, has been at the Carménère game since `93, so they were at the very beginning (or, at least, the end of the beginning) of that twisting evolutionary tale. With Marcelo Garcia at the winemaking helm, they’re now pretty much fully invested in the latter phase, trying to showcase Carménère for what it naturally brings in Maule, haters-be-damned.

Their efforts make excellent statements about the current state of modern Carménère coming out of Chile: expressive reds that aren’t overblown, will almost certainly please a crowd, and are still affordable enough that they will please your bank account…

 

crowd pleaser2018 Terra Noble Gran Reserva Carménère (Colchagua Valley, $19)

Terra Noble’s flagship Carm is a spicy, smokey, fruity affair from grapes planted back in `94. From pepper and herb notes to black fruits and juicy vibrancy, this is the kind of Carm that even Carm haters can get behind. Plenty of structure sits behind the palate’s tart plum flavors, along with meatiness, power, and a dash of cloves. The long, dynamic finish is a nice bonus at this price point.

 

2017 Terra Noble CA 1 Andes Carménère (Colchagua Valley, $25)

From a hot year even at 1200 feet of elevation in Los Lingues near the Andean foothills comes this deep, dark, spicy, seductive number of a Carménère. Black plums, bell pepper, sweet tobacco, licorice, herbs, all leading to a great mouthfeel that’s smooth, vibrant, muscular, and chewy. Equal parts power and poise… ok, maybe 60/40, actually…

 

2017 Terra Noble CA 2 ‘Costa’ Carménère (Colchagua Valley, $25)

As the name implies, the vineyard source for this Carm is close (40km) to the ocean, planted on granitic soils from a coastal mountain range that sees a good amount of morning breezes as a result. It’s a serious red, with pronounced – but well-integrated – tannins, black fruits, plentiful herbal notes, and a ton of smoked meat action. The deal-sealer is the freshness, though, which weaves its way throughout every aspect of the palate. A statement-maker, basically.

 

crowd pleaser2018 Terra Noble Gran Reserva Carignan (Maule Valley, $19)

A bonus wine, not from Carménère  but from Chile’s ound-for-pound best-performing red grape: Carignan. It’s a minor crime that more of this variety isn’t planted throughout the country (particularly on granite and quartz soils, as is the case with the vines that source this red). Seeing 50% concrete and 5% whole cluster gives this Carignan rendition a fresh, tart profile of red fruit flavors and tobacco spiciness, with a chewy, tasty mouthfeel and a fairly long finish. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better introduction to Chilean Carignan for the money.

Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Wine in the Time of Coronovirus, Part 13 (The Evolution of Modern Carménère with Terra Noble) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/wine-in-the-time-of-coronovirus-part-13-the-evolution-of-modern-carmenere-with-terra-noble/

Monday 2 November 2020

Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For November 2, 2020

I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format.
 
They are meant to be quirky, fun, and (mostly) easily-digestible reviews of (mostly) currently available wines (click here for the skinny on how to read them), and are presented links to help you find them, so that you can try them out for yourself. Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For November 2, 2020 from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-november-2-2020/

Thursday 29 October 2020

Cold-Blooded Murder Cartoons, and One Glass to Rule Them All (Wine Products Roundup)

Here’s another in the occasional series of reviews of samples that I receive that cannot be safely imbibed. In this round, we’ve got a cartoon of full-on, cold-blooded murder, and maybe the last wine glass that you’ll need to be buy (until you break it, I mean, from overuse).

Gabriel-Glas

Let’s start with the latter. The Gabriel-Glas Austrian Crystal Wine Glass comes in two variants: the durable “StandArt” Edition (Set of 2, $62.50), and the almost gossamer-thin “Gold” Edition (Set of 2, $142). These are both, of course, pricier than your average multi-duty, tulip-shaped wine glass that you could pick up at your local Target; they are also both much more elegant and versatile. Both editions easily handled everything that I threw at them, from still reds/whites, to bubbles. The Standard has fast become my new go-to tasting glass for reviews; its more expensive older sister Gold edition is one of the most balanced, finely-crafted pieces of stemware that I’ve ever held. While they’re not cheap, these are as close to a one-stop-shopping wine glass experience as you’ll find, even at those prices. The fact that the StandArt version is reasonably affordable while still being premium enough to satisfy many of the most persnickety/discerning sippers makes it a winner. If you’re looking for a replacement for your recently-broken fave wine glass, you absolutely need to give these a look.

Gold in the Vineyards

Now for the cold-blooded murder bit: we have the newly-released English-language version of the book Gold in the Vineyards: Illustrated stories of the world’s most celebrated vineyards, by Laura Catena (Catapulta Editores, 184 pages, $15). A well-researched, attractive hardcover by one of the most indefatigable and impressive wine personalities on the planet, this is one of the more unique and interesting wine book concepts to come along in a good long while – tell the stories of famous wine producers and vineyards from around the world, using the help of old-timey style illustrations that were once the purview of children’s books. The result is equal parts informative and strange. Among the text detailing the histories of the likes of Antinori and Harlan are cartoon depictions of cold-blooded murder, anthropomorphic grape bunches, and Australians telling people to go to hell in several different languages. The text itself presents an equally odd use of a combination of fonts, typefaces, and letter sizes, presumably meant to bring whimsy and “scan-ability” to the content, but more often than not actually making reading Gold in the Vineyards more confusing than it need be. The whole package is interesting, informative, and unique enough to rise above all of that, however, and so is worth checking out if you need a gift for the wine lover in your life who already has almost everything.

Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Cold-Blooded Murder Cartoons, and One Glass to Rule Them All (Wine Products Roundup) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/cold-blooded-murder-cartoons-and-one-glass-to-rule-them-all-wine-products-roundup/

Monday 26 October 2020

Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For October 26, 2020

I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format.
 
They are meant to be quirky, fun, and (mostly) easily-digestible reviews of (mostly) currently available wines (click here for the skinny on how to read them), and are presented links to help you find them, so that you can try them out for yourself. Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For October 26, 2020 from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-october-26-2020/

Thursday 22 October 2020

Wine in the Time of Coronavirus, Part 12 (CARO Recent Releases)

CARO vineyard
image: CARO

Admittedly, I kind of wanted to hate CARO.

Not because of the wine, which as you’ll read in a minute or two is well worth talking about, but because it’s just the kind of big-wine-companies-joint venture (between Argentina’s Catena and France’s Lafite Rothschild) that is almost too clever for its own good. Almost.

The idea in marketing terms? Joining the two signature grapes of its partner companies: Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon, respectively. That’s the kind of cleverness that makes wine wonks like me start to roll their eyes far enough into the backs of our heads that we start to see what’s left of our own gray matter.

However, this is a marriage where quality trumps clever marketing, and in some cases actually results in quite a lot of bang for the buck. Apparently, no amount of marketing sheen can tarnish the consistent quality record of the two juggernauts that makeup CARO…

2018 Bodegas Caro ‘Aruma’ Malbec (Mendoza, $15)

When I tasted these samples live with CARO’s Jura-born estate director Philippe Rolet via Zoom, he mentioned that “Malbec is a pretty easy grape in the winery,” adding the important caveat that this is true only if the Malbec is properly tended in the vineyard. Meaning “night” in the language of mendoza’s native Quechua, this particular example of the region sees only stainless steel in order “to capture the typicity” of CARO’s site: 3000 feet in elevation, allowing the grapes to develop thicker skins and, therefor, more phenolics. This little over-achieving red is mineral, and fantastically spicy (smoked meat, coffee, tobacco, graphite), with equal parts power, grip, and freshness buttressing its red and blue fruit palate. Consider the typicity aptly captured.

 

2017 Bodegas Caro ‘Amancaya’ Gran Reserva (Mendoza, $20)

A Cabernet/Malbec blend named for a high-elevation flower that is traditionally used as an engagement offering in the region (awwwwwwwwwwwwwww), Rolet cited this particular cold/dry vintage as “one of my favorites.” While the mouthfeel isn’t abundantly complex, it is absolutely lovely, with sexy, ripe, brambly fruits, a nice mix of smoothness and freshness, and earthy hints on its finish. Aromatically, this is intriguing stuff: dried herbs, plums, cassis, currants, graphite… just very hard to resist.

Philippe Rolet

elegant2017 Bodegas Caro ‘Caro’ (Mendoza, $65)

The flagship red, from a selection of vines grown on calcareous soils, topped off with a clever name (think about it, you’ll get it), with the Cabernet and Malbec spending time in 50% new oak from Lafite’s own cooperage. There’s a lot to like immediately with this red: blackcurrant, graphite (again!), dark chocolate, violets, dried herbal spices, smoked meat, and sweet tobacco. In the mouth, it’s powerful, fresh, structured, and fruity; if that all sounds well-integrated and balanced, that’s because it is, actually, well-integrated an balanced. I guess there’s more to this than a clever name, after all…

Cheers!

Upscale your palate! My new books are now available from Rockridge Press! Copyright © 2020. Originally at Wine in the Time of Coronavirus, Part 12 (CARO Recent Releases) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!


source http://www.1winedude.com/wine-in-the-time-of-coronavirus-part-12-caro-recent-releases/